As more employers ask their workers to return to the office, this may also mean a return to slacks, button-ups and blouses. Yet, a traditional dress code could get in the way of a company's
According to a study by beauty wellness company Univia, over 85% of employees believe physical appearance matters in the workplace, and nearly one-third of women recalled experiencing questionable treatment related to how they look in the workplace. While appearance-based bias stems from factors like height, weight, race and other cultural identifying features, as well as wardrobe, a dress code does not make it easier for diverse talent to feel comfortable in their own skin at work, says Ritu Bhasin, author of "The Authenticity Principal" and founder and CEO of Bhasin Consulting, a DEI consulting firm.
"There shouldn't be a required dress code in office environments, even when people have client interactions," says Bhasin. "If we do away with dress codes, whether it's hybrid, in person or virtual, we give people the autonomy to decide how to dress."
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Bhasin views that autonomy as key to creating an inclusive workplace, noting that traditional business attire largely reflects a norm set by able-bodied white men for themselves as well as for white women. In other words, suits, skirts and heels do not speak to comfort or functionality, but rather conformity and a male-centric gaze. For example, women of color will immediately fail to meet these "standards," explains Bhasin.
"Dress codes reflect the behavioral expectations set by dominant cultural identities," she says. "Because the normative we are being judged against is a white male normative, we are reminded we don't belong, that we lack choice and our identities are vilified."
This is most apparent in the conversations surrounding Black hair. California passed the CROWN Act in 2019 to protect Black women from facing discrimination due to how they choose to wear their hair. Six states have passed this legislation in the last few years, but Black hair still remains largely discriminated against in schools and workplaces. Employers have even asked Black women to cut their locs — Catastrophe Management Solutions rescinded Chasity Jones' job offer because she refused to cut her hair. The Equal Employment Opportunity Commission filed a lawsuit, but Jones eventually lost in 2016.
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Still, leaders may feel hesitant to remove dress codes, especially for client-facing employees. Bhasin has found that many companies have an inaccurate understanding of how clients connect with their business. In fact, "looking professional" may feel distancing or discomforting to a client, especially if the client is expected to share vulnerabilities or concerns with the company.
Fortunately, remote work has proven just how unnecessary dress codes are in the last two years.
"When we are at home, workers do not have to put on a corporate uniform, wear a full face of makeup or straighten their hair," says Bhasin. "At home, we expect people to look more casual and relaxed."
Bhasin advises employers to allow those expectations to translate to the office, allowing employees to choose their appearance. And if employers remain unconvinced, she suggests putting out a survey and hearing the answer from employees directly.
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"The results may surprise a lot of leaders," says Bhasin. "I suspect they're going to find that their team members will not want to go back to wearing business attire."
Bhasin also underlines the importance of leaders unlearning their conscious (and unconscious) appearance bias. Because if leaders are still stuck judging workers off the white-centric standard, then there will still be an unspoken dress code and expectations, regardless of company policy.
"In order for people to feel safe and secure in their work environment, they need to trust their leaders," says Bhasin. "So leaders need to go out of their way to create opportunities for people to be authentic."
